The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of growers who make wine from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the World
So far, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from development by establishing permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Polish Variety
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 vines. "I love the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of ÂŁ7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a fence on